Friday, April 23, 2010
The Past Week Review: Part 2
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
The Past Week Review: Part 1
Part 1
On Friday, I did a hike from Surfer’s Beach to Survivor Beach. Remember the awesome green cliffs I write about when surfing at Surfer’s Beach? Well, that is exactly what you have to hike through to get to Survivor Beach. Lots of scrambling and climbing around huge rocks by the ocean, and through the green jungle. When you finally get to Survivor Beach, it is like an untouched piece of Puerto Rican paradise. No one really on this beach because you have to hike to get to it. Yellow sand, clear water, rocks, dense palms and pines. It’s called Survivor Beach because several decades ago, a military plane crashed off the coast and that is where the survivors ended up coming to shore.
En route to Survivor Beach
Then a long walk up the cliffs into and through the town of Ramey (the area of Aguadilla where I live). It was awesome!
Halfway up the foothill...that beach way in the background is where we came from!
Walked through this neighborhood on the way back
Friday night I had dinner with some friends at Ola Lola’s in the nearby town Isabella. It’s owned by an American expatriate married couple, and it’s definitely an expat hangout. The expats here seem to be a community of kindred spirits--the kind of people who love the tropical beauty of the island and the sea, and who aren’t afraid to chase down their dream and make PR their home. They are usually the adventurous and unconventional type. So, I feel right at home at places like Ola Lola’s ;)
One of the people at our table was Darryl, the local diving instructor. I could have listened to his dive stories for hours—I was really fascinated by all the sea-life stuff he had seen and experienced. He had crazy stories about turtles, fish, stingrays, sharks, etc. Anyway, everyone at the table told me I should go on a dive with Darryl before I leave PR, so I think I will! I’ve snorkeled a lot, but I haven’t been on a dive for 12 years since getting certified in Belize as a teenager. I’m excited!
That night I woke up just before 4am from coconuts falling outta the trees and nightmares of being robbed, and then one of me being the robber (?). I think it was due to one of Darryl's stories at dinner being about getting mugged in Cincinnati. Anyway, I finally went back to sleep and had this awesome surf dream where I was just killing it on this super long left in Cocoa Beach. Well, I woke up a couple hours later and headed out to Wilderness. And would you believe it, I pretty much lived out my dream in reality.
--I'll take a sec to explain “lefts” and “rights” to the non-surfers. A decent wave will peel off either to the left or to the right as it breaks, so that you have a "line" you can surf down. A left for a surfer is a wave that breaks to your left as you face shore, a right is to the right as you face shore. Usually, for people who surf with their left-foot forward like me, it's easier to surf a right because you are facing the wave. The other way, you kind of have your back to the wave. Puerto Rico is known for having mostly rights, but for some reason, I've gotten really good at surfing lefts here... weird.--
That day at Wildo
When I got out of the water, Masso was grilling up some chicken in the back of his truck. A bunch of us hung out there for about an hour or so shooting the breeze and watching people surf--and eating some pretty damn good BBQ!
Masso grillmaster
I actually went to another grill-out for dinner with a bunch of the surfers I’ve met down here, good times. It was just a grill-out kind of day I suppose!
Sunday was quite interesting. I intended for the day to be a surf day and a work day. However, I felt like a stubborn little kid all day. The only thing I could actually prod myself into doing was surfing. Other than that, I did pretty much nothing productive the the whole day except eat and relax! Haha. But I had SUCH a fun morning and evening session, surfing at Wilderness both times. In the morning, it was just me and Barb Graves (mother of professional surfers Dylan and Josie Graves from the area) out in the water. Was everyone else at church? Or was it the fact that it was a “small” day for Wilderness, with a lot of the waves that were coming in not even breaking. I’m not sure, but we had some fun 3-4 foot waves all to ourselves. Being from Cocoa Beach, I know all about “scrapping” for any wave that could possibly be rideable, which came in handy on a day like this one where the waves were a little weak. I was catching a ton of little waves and having a blast!
Barb and little Tristan Graves playing in the shorebreak at Wildo, with my buddy Lenny on the stand-up paddleboard in the background catching a ride
This is what my face looks like in front of Wilderness
That evening, the conditions were really nice with a gentle offshore wind. Out of nowhere, seemingly, the waves started going into the chest high and head high range. Wow! This time, there was a decent-sized crowd, but it was still a super-fun session under the setting sun. Later, we found out there had been an earthquake just off shore around 4pm. We all hypothesized that was the cause of the mystery swell!
Part 2 posted tomorrow... a few more pics below. :)
Wednesday, April 14, 2010
Back
Since I last wrote, I feel a distinct change. I feel like “I’m back.” Back to my normal self. I obviously have been having a great time in Puerto Rico but the transition from home to here for what I initially thought was going to be a 3-month stay was a bit jarring. The best way I can describe it is like being disconnected from my power source. Back home, my power source was doing and teaching lots of Bikram yoga, the yoga community, and my amazing network of friends. I really fed off of these things more than I realized. Coming down here without those things felt like being “unplugged.”
Throughout this whole process, I’ve constantly told myself the key is in my hand—it’s all in your mental outlook. During the first couple of weeks, I gave a lot of focus towards being joyful no matter if I was alone or in an unfamiliar place, etc. While I did at most times feel joyful (especially when surfing!), I am just now finally feeling like I used to—essentially in a constant state of joy and comfort. I guess to put a long story short, I’ve finally “settled in.”
It also helps so much that I have more people to hang out with now. I’ve met more people out surfing. In the small community of northwest PR surfing, meeting one person automatically connects you to many more. Sort of like playing MineSweeper, you know? You click on one box and it opens several… haha that is your random computer game tangent for the day…
Anyway, yesterday was the best PR day ever! I woke up just before 7am to go surf at Secret Spot, so I could avoid the afternoon wind that diminishes the wave quality. Still half-way asleep, I made my way out to Secret Spot and ended up getting my car stuck driving down a sand road I shouldn’t have. It rained the night before, rendering the sand too soft and deep for the Beach Bomb.
I know this doesn’t sound like the start to a great day, but the key is in my hand, remember? Worrying would solve nothing…so I did my best not to fret. I simply grabbed my board, locked up the car, and headed to the beach. This could be dealt with after surfing.
The conditions at Secret Spot were ok this morning… it was still a bit disorganized so the wave quality was about a 5 out of 10. But, when a wave would finally take form, it would be intense! These waves were really peaking up and getting very steep and hollow. I missed on a lot of waves by taking off too deep—too close to the peak and not making the drop. Can I blame some of it on being half-asleep still? I did wake up enough to have a few good rides before I felt like I should really go and deal with my car.
I called a couple friends and luckily, my buddy Tom knew a tow truck driver. Rafy made it out in about 30 minutes and easily got the Beach Bomb back on solid footing. It was nice having to wait on him actually, because I hiked back to the paved road through the beautiful surrounding nature—palms, pines, and sand against the backdrop of dense green foothills.
Where dirt road meets paved--the turn-off for Secret Spot where I waited on Rafy
Rafy got the Beach Bomb out no problem.
Problem solved. Headed home to do some work. Had such a fun and productive day working mostly on the business startup side of things. Since I discarded the initial name and concept I had for my business, I am now reworking my concept, which includes name, logo, building my own site, etc.
Around 5pm Ray and Tony called me up to ask if I was going to surf at sunset. I was in such a productive mode with work stuff I almost said, “No.” But I thought, wait, I’M IN PUERTO RICO, of course I want to go surf again. It was rainy, but as the surfers know, when the rain clears is often the best time, condition-wise, to go surf.
Beach Bomb was very cranky about me getting her stuck earlier and refused to start. So I let her be--luckily the guys live close and were able to pick me up.
We went to nearby Surfer’s Beach, my 2nd-favorite spot here in PR. It's so beautiful to see the huge rocky cliffs covered in thick jungle and towering palms on the shore when you're out there. As one friend put it, "you expect to see King Kong pop out at any moment."
Sure enough, the rain stopped as we got there and the conditions were super nice and glassy. At first, the waves looked very small from the shore, which was a little bit of a bummer. Since all I had was my short board, I wondered if I would even be able to catch these waves that looked more suited for a longboard. But it was incredibly beautiful out and I couldn’t wait to get in the water, so we all paddled out anyway.
Thank God we did! Once we were out there for a bit, some bigger waves started coming through and they were FUN FUN FUN! Very nice 3- and even some 4-foot waves. There were about 8 of us out there. Even though that is a small number of people for Surfer’s Beach, there were still barely enough rideable waves to go around. So, we all kind of adopted the mutual agreement to Party Wave. If you don’t surf, this simply means that more than one person rides the same wave. Normally, you don’t do that surfing because the person in front as you go down the line of the wave can get in the way of the person in the back, who has the right-of-way in this situation. Also, it can be dangerous if the two people run into each other. But with friends and people who know what they are doing, it can be fun. So, we all had a blast doing the party wave thing. We were out there so long that by the time I caught my last wave to go back to shore, it was because it was too dark to judge the waves anymore! Here I’d like to point out that there has never been a shark attack reported in Puerto Rico… so sharks really aren’t a concern at dusk and night.
Today has been essentially a repeat. I made it up early for a fun session at Surfer’s Beach (very similar to last night), working the rest of the day, and will catch a sunset session shortly. I love this way of life… tomorrow though I will modify the schedule to make sure I get in a home-practice of Bikram yoga. A home practice isn't quite the same as being at a real studio, but it still is so beneficial. Yoga keeps me limber, injury-free and soreness-free so I am able to surf as much as possible.
We have a small swell coming for the weekend, so the waves will be a bit bigger than they are now. Can’t wait!
Thanks for reading! Few more pics below. Randy, if you are reading this I haven't forgotten your request for more people shots and shots of town. Look for them in one of the next few blogs :)
Beach Bomb in a pickle
Cool hermit crab I found on my hike
Hilarious! This is how I got my bathroom a little hotter for yoga the other day!
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Smooth Sailing

CRASHBOAT BEACH
Crashboat is a BEAUTIFUL beach where a lot of people go to hang out. I must have spent the first 45 minutes there just floating on my back and swimming around in the amazing water. If you’ve ever been to Waikiki in Hawaii, it is almost exactly the same. Same pretty golden-colored sand, same CLEAR turquoise water, same lush green backdrop. It reminded me of being at the 2007 Bikram Yoga Teacher Training in Waikiki for 9 weeks. We’d have pretty much one day-off a week, which had to be used for studying. I would study all day at the beach and take study breaks by swimming and floating around on my back just marveling at how beautiful it all was. Same deal at Crashboat.
Took pics of Crashboat with my iPhone and made a panorama out of them
Rest of the day and night, I spent working, downloading lots and lots of music, and watching LOST on my computer. Stayed in for the night so I could wake up early to surf.
Sunday morning, I accidentally missed dawn patrol with Tom because I set my alarm improperly (yep, that old story). Luckily, I woke up on my own just before 7am anyway and headed out right away to Secret Spot.
This was my first time surfing Secret Spot. When I got there, Tom was just finishing up his surf and told me all about the break—the current, where to paddle out, etc, so I knew what to expect. It’s kind of a point-break off of a huge rock. For anyone who’s been to PR before, it reminds me exactly of a mini-Jobos in that respect. Mini, because it’s just a little bitty cove and one peak. The wave is very different though—Jobos is usually a mellow wave, while at Secret Spot the wave really peaks up and gets much more hollow (non-surfers think: steeper and more challenging). Today was a bit choppy and disorganized, but everyone told me that on a typical day, the wave is awesome. Today was still fun, just not every wave that came through was good so you had to pick and choose carefully.
The spot is very beautiful, tucked away, big rocks, sand dunes, palms, cypress trees. Green cliffs in the background. There were only about 5 of us out there, which was nice.
After surfing Secret Spot, I went to my friend Diana’s café El Carey for some breakfast and coffee. It was really fun because everyone I had just surfed with ended up going there afterwards. I met all of them and we all hung out for a long time just talking. Turns out we all travel to surf, and we were talking about our favorite trips. I picked up a lot of good info on places I want to go. A couple of the guys got me really interested in going to Panama after hearing them talk about how much they love it.
Tomorrow looks like surfing Secret Spot again, and on through the week until the next swell shows up on Friday. Can’t wait to see what this next swell brings; hopefully I can go back to my favorite spot Wilderness if this swell "wraps around" the island to reach the more southern breaks like the last one did.
Hope everyone has a GREAT week, and thanks again for reading! Pics from today at Secret Spot below. Will post surf pics when/if I can locate a photographer before I go!
Walking up to the beach at Secret Spot
"Parking lot"
West end of Secret Spot
Looking East, big dunes
Looking north out over the Atlantic
Dawn patrollers
Facing south; backdrop of green
466 leaving Secret Spot